Lawn Care
The smell of a freshly cut lawn, the feel of the soft green grass under your bare feet; these are the joys of spring. Many people want that emerald green space, but think it's hopelessly unachievable. Cheer up. It doesn't have to be. You too can have a beautiful lawn, and you don't need to invest a lot of time or money. Following a few practical methods of preventive maintenance will help you create a healthy turf that competes with weeds, holds its own against pests and diseases and rewards you with a lush, green expanse that's the envy of the neighborhood.
Water – In the absence of rain, be sure to give your lawn 1" of water each week. If you're unsure of your lawn's moisture level, step on the grass. If you leave a footprint after five minutes, it means the soil is dry in the root zone and your lawn is thirsty. It's important to water your grass adequately. Our clay soil is hard to water; it takes 1" of water to wet clay soil to 5"-6" deep. Sometimes, it helps to pulse irrigate. That is, turn on your sprinkler for 15 minutes each hour. This gives the water time to penetrate the top layer of soil so the second watering will seep down. Also, water early in the day so the surface can dry before dark to discourage fungi that like to grow in damp, cool conditions.
Nutrition – Taking a soil test every two to three years is the best way to determine the nutrition of your soil. These kits can be obtained from your local Co-Operative Extension Service. However, in the absence of a soil test, it's safe to assume that your pH is low and your grass needs some nutrients, especially nitrogen. That's where dolomitic limestone and fertilizer come in. Apply 75 lbs of lime per 1000 square feet of grass and apply a fertilizer with a 4:1:2 or 4:1:3 ratio (that is, look for a fertilizer with numbers like 16-4-8 or 24-6-18). It's best to use fertilizers with some slow-release nitrogen such as ureaformaldehyde or sulfur coated urea. That way, you can make fewer applications, your turf will receive a steady source of nutrients over a longer period, and there's less chance of fertilizer burn. Fertilize cool season grasses (tall fescue, fine fescue, annual rye) starting in mid-September. Fertilize warm season grasses (bermuda, centipede, zoysia, St. Augustine) starting in April. Stop fertilizing cool season grasses in early spring and warm season grasses in late summer as they begin to go dormant.
Mowing – Never mow your grass when it's wet, as this is one of the best ways to spread disease. Also, keep your mower blades sharp. Dull blades rip the grass, stressing the plant and creating wounds that attract insects and disease. And don't cut your grass too short. Only remove one-third to one-half of the leaf blade at any one time. Longer blades shade and cool the plant's crown, where growth occurs, and provide more surface area for photosynthesis. (But that doesn't mean you should let your lawn get really tall between mowings.) Also, think about investing in a mulching mower, which adds organic nutrients to the lawn.
Seeding – Most cool season grasses should be seeded from early to mid-September. They'll become established before hard freezes and avoid fall leaf drop while young. Most warm season grasses should be seeded from March or April to July. Remember to keep those seeds constantly moist while germinating. As the seedlings get older, water less frequently, but more deeply. Mow the seedlings for the first time when they are tall enough to hit the mower blade.
Aeration – Annual core aeration relieves compaction of the soil over time, creating spaces for fertilizer and root growth.
Pests – Good cultural practices are your best defense against the many weeds, insects and diseases that plague lawns. If you need to use a pre-emergent herbicide to kill weed seeds before they sprout, make sure it's on the ground in late winter/early spring before they start germinating. Spot treat persistent weeds with a low-toxic herbicide like Round-Up. Common pests that attack lawns are insects such as Japanese beetle grubs, sod webworms, chinch bugs, mole crickets and cutworms, and fungi such as anthracnose, brown patch, dollar spot, greasy spot and rust. If you suspect any of these problems, consider getting a professional diagnosis and treatment. But remember it is always best for our environment to use the least aggressive methods of pest control.
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